When it comes to food, it seems like there’s not much that’s exotic anymore. Even the local Friday’s has Chimichurri Sliders, and everybody else seems to have dishes from every corner of the globe just for the sake of livening up an otherwise dull menu. The challenge, then, isn’t finding something eclectic on the menu so much as finding it done well. Thankfully, Churrasco Grill falls neatly into the second category.
Churrasco Grill’s interior looks a bit like a walk-in closet with tables and chairs, or perhaps one of the earlier parts of the Marx Brothers’ infamous “stateroom scene.” It’s not altogether uninviting, but it’s cramped. And cramped conditions, combined with a wait of over an hour just for the appetizers, didn’t do much to improve the moods of six people who were already starving when we set foot in the place. Combine that with some wine, and the wisecracks start flowing. Was the Chilean sea bass having visa problems?
Then, somewhat belatedly, the appetizers arrive, the talking stops abruptly, and the chef is your new best friend.
The ceviche is absolutely lovely, just the right balance of citrus tartness and a cilantro-pepper finish. The calamari aren’t your typical calamari; they’re onion ring-sized pieces of squid which might leave you wondering if the squid underwent some kind of exercise regimen before making his way to your plate. The Ronda Caliente features some skewered and grilled animal bits served with a spicy sauce.
The Churrasco, a hearty slab of barbecued beef, is terrific either on its own, or as part of the Mixed Grill, the latter including a sausage, some short ribs, and a pork chop. I wanted to compliment not only the chef, but also the respective livestock; the former for putting together a good meal, and the latter for having laid down their lives in such tasty fashion. Churrasco, like Rodizio (Brazilian barbecue), doesn’t drown a perfectly good cut of meat in quarts of sickly sweet sauce; instead, you’re more likely to find rubs, Chimichurri, and marinades used extensively. The upshot of this is that you taste more of the meat, and the meat also picks up more of the flavor from the charcoal as well. Supposedly all those charred bits are carcinogenic; if the doctor says anything, I’ll kick the cigarettes and just stick to the crispy bits in my barbecue. And if you’re cutting down on fats, make an exception in this case, for your own sake. The cuts do tend to be a bit on the fatty side, but since that’s where the flavor comes from, it’s worth the occasional indulgence.
And by the way, don’t think we missed out on dessert. The Chocolate Bread Pudding was dense, flavorful and chocolatey. I don’t know if anyone uses that word outside of commercials, but it fits here. The tiramisu was light and fluffy. The only misstep–oddly enough, for a place that gets so much else so right–was the flan. Its texture was perfect, but it had a bit too much cinnamon, and had a citrus finish that would probably have been better suited to an Italian cheesecake.
So: the wait times, and the flan, could’ve used some work. Elbow room might also have been nice. However, if you’re willing to wait, you’ll find your patience amply rewarded.
Churrasco Grill is located at 137 N. Beverwyck Road in Lake Hiawatha, NJ. You can call them at 973-263-1590. Reservations strongly suggested.