I’m sure that Red Bank has some perfectly lovely restaurants. Names like Front Street Trattoria and Gustavo’s beckon locals and visitors alike, and I’m often told by friends and family that I have to try them. One of these days I’m sure I will. But for three years now, ever since owner and head chef Bob Guido himself invited us in, I’ve been hung up on River’s Edge Café.
The Café is an understatedly cheery little place, with its exposed brick, prints and tapestries on the walls, and a perfectly attentive staff. Don’t be surprised if (when) Bob himself comes out of the kitchen to see if everything’s alright. And outdoor dining is available in season if you go in for that sort of thing (I’m always slightly paranoid that passersby will start taking stuff off my plate).
But enough about atmosphere. How’s about a menu crawl?
Simple timing–the fact that we’re generally stopping off at REC on our way to or from the Shore–has generally meant that we’ve visited during breakfast or lunch hours. The food on the breakfast menu ranges from standards (pancakes, french toast, omeletes) to the unpredictable, like the gut-busting Pasta Alla Papa, which combines pasta with eggs, sausage, parmesan, and bacon. Pasta for breakfast? Who knew?
And while the eggs Benedict have even earned rave reviews from the New York Times, it’s a shame the Times’ writer didn’t stick around for lunch. He missed the homemade soups, the overstuffed sandwiches, and a perfectly lovely chicken Florentine, among quite a bit else.
Of course we haven’t neglected dinnertime. Perish the thought. The Café shifted to a predominantly Italian (and Italian-inspired) menu not too long ago, which means that you won’t find the delicious Chicken Duxelle any more. But between the Tortellini Carbonara, Aunt Rose’s Braciole (possibly the best I’ve had), the ever-reliable Chicken Neapolitan, or the hearty* Chicken Scarpariello, you won’t miss it. The standout on the dinner menu? Shrimp Pisano, which combines a generous handful of shrimp with lemon, beer, garlic, and Worchestershire sauce. It’s one of the few things on the menu that can be eaten at a single sitting without the diner’s stomach feeling as though it may rupture with a wafer-thin mint.**
But enough of the endless praise. There’s got to be something, you say, that I’d take issue with? Well, alright. The Parisian Omelete had too much mustard once. There. I’ve said it. But one dish–not even a bad one, mind you, just a bit off–in a couple dozen visits over a three-year period? That’s a record to be proud of.
Most restaurants will have at least one dish on the menu that you savor, and will gladly go back for time and time again. River’s Edge Café is something else again. Its mix of simplicity and creativity makes it a restaurant to enjoy and savor, time and again.
River’s Edge Cafe is located at 35 Broad Street in Red Bank, NJ. You can call ahead: 732-741-7198. You could also, if you’d like, visit them on the web: www.riversedgecafe.com
* “Hearty” is a bit of an understatement; the portion size for most dishes could be termed “ridiculous” without much fear of contradiction. Plate sharing is a good idea, especially if you want to have room for dessert.
**cf. Monty Python’s Meaning of Life